As noted in prior posts, swarf is the destructive element to these fine transmissions. Land Rovers - One Guide - Read It! Clean off new shaft and blow out all oil galleries with compressed air I'm ready for re-assembly. When you have worked this out you can adjust the screws the springs are resting on to lean the stick left or right until it shifts better. But I like to be able to check that they have gone all the way home. Part off bit of scrap tube. Lift off 5th gear from layshaft Can't remember if I needed a puller to do this. Firstly you need to work out which way to adjust it, to do this drive the vehicle but when shifting into 3 and 4 instead of letting the gearstick go where it wants to go try holding it a little to the left then a little to the right, one way or the other it will drop in nicer.
Slide off gear bush, spacer, cone, inner and outer baulk rings. This plate is inexpensive and can be changed with gearbox in situ. The circular grooves and gouges can be removed by taking the rear extension to a machine shop and having them grind flush the gouging and slightly reboring the oil pump gear divot. Been running just fine and driving great. The 'G' was further improved by all the gear teeth including the pinion getting approx 20% thicker.
If you then advise us of the part number you require we will then quote you for this part if we are able to supply. The clutch friction plate has a ring of springs, which are there to soften the knock of the diesel engine to stop it being transmitted to the driveline. I found a standard set of bearing pullers were not up to the job. The obvious advantage of doing it yourself of course, is you know what you've changed, and what you left as 'serviceable'. Fit snap ring to shaft.
. I guessed a couple of tie wraps would mean this couldn't happen - so just a precaution. For those interested, a call to them may be a good thing. Picking up on one of the centre plate bolt holes, lock the 5th gear — I used a bit of scrap. I bought another Land Rover last summer.
The later input gears were modified with lubrication holes to stop the wear. Remove selector shaft spool retainer. When you fit a new gearbox this can sometimes need adjusting to agree with the selector shafts to ensure a clean gearshift. Remove mainshaft gear cluster complete with selectors. However if there are parts you require you cannot see listed please follow this. I can then have a go at rebuilding my original box myself I also have a 200tdi from a discovery which I would like to swap at some point, but preferably I would rebuild that first - plus the 19j still has some life in it.
No mention is made of periodic oil changes. The 'G' was further improved by all the gear teeth including the pinion getting approx 20% thicker. Please pardon an old ladies ramblings this time of night, odds and ends keep popping into my head. As this was chromed, needed to machine a bit of the chrome off where I was going to weld. If your gearbox has the following prefix you have a long stick box - 53A, 54A, 55A, 57A, 59A, 63A.
On inspection, I could see that there was a little oil leaking here and there. So I thought it would make an interesting topic. Fit correct size shims, oil seal to housing, and then housing to casing. Note how the oil pump teeth are chewed up and ragged. See below for further information on this progression. Then the clutch lever arm. Then there is the oil pump area on the rear extension.
Having the shield on the back side of the bearing cuts down on leakage past the oil seal. Third and fourth gear synchro rings are subject to more wear than first and second, while fifth gear syncro sees least amount wear. It is also the Achilles Heel of the design. End fitted into tube — you can just see the join. Servicing the box is quite easy tho setting the preload is best left to a transmission shop. The sealant was dangling on the inside and around the gasket surface.
They will not sell just the one seal. New gaskets and seals, timing belt etc. This plate is inexpensive and can be changed with gearbox in situ. When they went from 'E' to 'F' larger layshaft bearings were used. When we rebuild the boxes we set this position but sometimes it needs fine tuning when in the car. Fit bearing outer races — push fit only. Bloody awkward thing to remove due to the very unbalanced nature of it.