He ran a scan or diagnostic, whatever its called, and he said the scanner was displaying Engine - Turbo Underboost. At full rest, the rod should be fully extended but not hitting anything. Sorry for all the Questions Thanks in advance Thanks for the Advice, What do you mean by you capped your N75? As a, result the pressure above the Restrictor that goes to the Waste Gate actuator can be regulated by bleeding off controlled amounts of air through the left side purple port of N75. I understand it's standard practice to disconnect the battery negative terminal. Well it does except for the fact you can't see the turbo. Once the air pressure in that actuator overcomes the spring pressure, the Waste Gate opens and allows some of the exhaust gases to bypass the turbine wheel.
Additionally, if you have the valve, but need accessories such as a replacement valve cap, you can also search the wide selection to locate amenities as such. The pictures aren't helping and I don't want to screw up this car anymore. Note the oily discharge that has been building up for some time; this can be a symptom of a problem with the turbo, but in this case it appears to be simply the accumulation of oil through the crankcase ventilation system which is directed into the intake tract just ahead of the turbocharger over 100,000+ miles of service. Another problem is corrosion buildup around the adjuster ring inside the turbo. The darker hose behind it carries the air out of the compressor side of the turbo. This oil comes via the engine's crankcase ventilation system.
I also plan to rebuild the turbo following your directions, hopefully the same turbo is used for my year? Here comes the N75 valve. Also, your info the o2 sensor is spot on. I mean with no chipping? I am having trouble removing the allen bolt from the block side of the bracket. The Garrett part comes with a clip taped to the box as shown above. At this moment in time i guess i will Double and Triple Check for boost leaks, ill take all the pipes off and check them, make sure there tight etc, as this seems to be the 1st, easiest and cheapest place to start at, If i can get the N75 off i will try adjusting the screw just to see if it helps abit, is the N75 easy to get off the car? Thanks in advance November 20, 2017 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Not that I know if. One of the tests is N75 test cycle.
Recommendation: Have technician conduct a complete inspection of the part s in question and conduct pressure test for possible leak. This will remove any carbon starting to build up in the line. Best to remove it so it isn't damaged. My engine didn't have the extra coolant line so I only lost a small amount of coolant when disconnecting the lines. It came with 3 studs to connect the turbo to the exhaust but no new nuts, do I need new nuts? Figure 1 You don't need to remove the compressor outlet hose at this point, but you can see here that I have. Do you know where I can get one? It will have the procedure, special tools and torque specs.
I will have the article updated. There's a heatshield around the can, not pictured. It's a good idea to remove the oil return tube completely and flush out the line using brake parts cleaner. When you first start the engine, let it idle for about a minute without revving to give the turbo a chance to be properly lubricated. I will have some notes added to the article. But this is possible on most turbocharged engines. The following will explain why this is a dangerous undertaking.
Okay, You can use it as the reference material only. Here's where N75 comes in. July 21, 2016 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. Could they have left something unhook? May 13, 2014 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Is the oil level ok? I disconnected everything I could from the top and then jacked up the car to get to the connections underneath. If those limits are exceeded, surging will set in, particularly under part load.
I would test vacuum to the diverter when the problem is present. To turn it because the oil return line an ac compressor backet are in the way. November 15, 2015 Followup from the Pelican Staff: Does not sound right. If not can you send a complete list of the individual part numbers you have so that I can order. What color is the smoke? Figure 36 In this photo you can see the actuating rod between the wastegate actuating valve the cylinder to the right of the photo and the wastegate linkage itself, which is behind the crankcase ventilation tube in the foreground to the left. I looked everywhere for this picture or info and couldnt find it.
I haven't been around this forum for over a year. The downside of the turbo is the complexity it adds to your engine bay and the increased potential for repair and maintenance issues. The lever moves a ring and the ring moves the vanes. Garrett actuators suck in the rod with vac vs. It allows only a small amount of air to enter from the green port below. When you reinstall the turbo, leave the fastener connecting the coolant feed line to the wastegate valve a bit loose.