Flush the transmission cooler and cooler lines. I have put off for 2 years by keeping transfer case in Auto. Maybe seperate your parts list etc? Especially if it was dirty. From the top roughly align the dipstick tube so the bracket is parallel with the back of the engine. Remove the 2 15mm bolts holding the starter to the engine I also removed the starter and selenoid wires 10mm and 12mm I think, but you may be able to just tuck the starter up into the frame to get it out of the way and leave the electrical stuff hooked up. After that, they came out like a dream. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal: sunshell is fractured.
When going from park to either reverse or drive it slams into gear. I could get the bolts off with a wrench without moving the crossmember. Once I got the edge away from the wall, I used needle nose pliers to get it out. Remove the 2 driver's side connectors at the transmission shifter. Disconnect the 3 o2 sensor connectors.
Remove the transmission pan 13mm bolts starting at one corner. The 4L60E transmission weighs 146 pounds dry, and 162 wet. Part of the crossmember blocks 3 or 4 bolts at the back of the pan, which elicited a good amount of anger from me. Also, the truck does take the shallow pan filter. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. Mine took longer 3 days as I didn't have these instructions to start, had to backtrack some steps, the service manual steps are vague.
Must be removed and rebuilt. The function and purpose of Automatic Transmission Fluid. I chose to replace it. Also replace the ends of 3 trans hoses. Interestingly enough when I dropped the pan, the old filter and seal were in the pan and not installed.
Other than a little smoking due to fluid spillage, all went well. Transmission will eventually die a loud, catastrophic death. So, I am forced to do it myself. Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together. I'm going to skip the filter swap this time 43k and go ahead and swap it at 75k.
Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. If not, this must be replaced. Fluid will start pumping out the tube into the bucket. It's a noticeable difference from how it was before and this time the filter and seal are actually installed. Save me a ton of cash from the dealer for the maintenance come spring time. The sequence is as follows. It should look like this.
Replace the remaining bolts and get them finger tight. So to help with the fluid in the tranny pan, you can go ahead and pump out the fluid down there. Scraping noise heard when applying brakes. Brought to you by www. And should i go with synthetic or regular? I managed to complete the service. Now, on to the procedure! Unplug the cooler lines and tie them back as best you can.
The seal was actually stuck on the old filter, which I quickly tossed aside and forgot about until today. At this point, you're going to start flushing the system. Tip the back of the transmission down to allow access to the top bellhousing bolts. With the small amount of room that I had, I fished a 13 or 15mm socket with a bunch of extensions and two universal sockets on a ratchet in order to loosen the rear bolts. And thanks for the info.