Feel Free to contact me at FixYa. If you get this code, the first thing to check is your distributor especially if you have an imported vehicle. Do these checks also on the crank sensor itself whether it is located in the front of the engine or at the flywheel at the rear of the engine. I'm a mechanic but never gone this far indepth, specially being by myself and trying it out. Plus my mounts also allowed fore and aft movement of the engine if I needed to move it.
So it'll just go together? I've yet to see one, that I know that was a 2wd v8 though. You're going to need a fuel pump properly sized for your new motor. The swap is pretty straight forward. But I won't really be able to see this transmission move or nothing? Does this mess anything up if I buy the output shaft and tail housing for 250 total at the Ford dealership. Even junyards and salvage yards. I've checked 3 so far.
Shouldn't be too hard just gotta know if those parts will work or fit. If you can help that'd be awesome, thanks! Or would it just be easier to buy the output shaft and tail housing? That picture was of a stroker engine in the Ranger from some time in 2000. I'm not 100% sure what I'm getting my self into, doesn't seem like the worst thing I've done it seems. Then see if the misfire changes cylinders. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.
Also there is Charcoal Canister and 1 other sensor that were added. Is it risky to do? Especially not an old, stock one. In that case switch the 4 plug with another plug and switch the 4 coil with another coil that isn't the same cylinder as the two switched plugs. May 13, 2010 For the 1997 Mercury Mountaineer V8 5. Short of tracking down a 4R70 out of a 2wd Explorer I don't know if the older 5.
Thank you for using FixYa. Had the truck for 3 years and still drives everywhere. I made my own mount brackets so I could use a standard Ford Truck engine mount. I have power steering hoses, radiator hoses with radiator out of a 99 Taurus, a radiator out of a 97 Escort also, tons of wiring, and other stuff can't think of. I'll have to check for one out of an F-150. It is an engine swappers' dream.
They have the best balance of keeping everything in place, while still having a little give, to minimize vibrations, as well as protecting the powertrain from damage. On my trac I've got the rad cooler plus the stock cooler in front the rad, plus an additional stock cooler I added and an external trans filter. I thought I paid too much personally. You could tear them both apart and probably switch the rear end. On engine with distributor, the cam sensor is usually located in the distributor and it will give you a lot of grief if not properly align and synchronize with the crank sensor.
Do at your own risk. Well hose it to my radiator? Do you have emissions to worry about? Or should I find a 2wd transmission out of a crown vic. I am not quite done with my V8 swap but is very close and does run and appear to run very well, I have gathered alot of information from various other thread, online research, trial and error and want to make this a little easier for the next person behind me. Sometimes it will be solid, sometimes it will flash. Changed all the spark plug wires, had my mechanic clear the code, and went for a drive. And sorry for being new and posting in the wrong places, I'm stilling working around this. The mount plates allow the engine to sit lower in the frame so the oil relocator needed to be one that had its ports exiting the side of the spin-on mount not the top.
Read both my threads to get familiarized. Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I'll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer. And I'll be posting tons and tons of pictures when I start to when I finish the build and help out anyone I can. If cams need to be moved, there is no registration of gear onto cam. Just want all my build to glide with no problems, well the least problems lol. Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
By Zach Bowman For those who suffer a daily commute through heavy traffic, your vehicle's braking system can bring thousands of pounds of metal, plastic and empty Starbucks cups to a stop hundreds of times before you get to work. It goes without saying that these pieces wear out, but they do so slowly, meaning you may not notice they need attention until. In the end I used a perma-cool unit that spins on and it has not leaked a drop of oil. May 11, 2010 ok you can take the egr valve off and clean it and if that works you my need to take it to get reset on codes other then that also check vacum lines if these do not work you will have to replace and i hate saying that because this part is high. The notes on the right side are for my swap into an '82 Diesel Volvo. Make note of the change in the sound of the engine. Ford makes a special tool to perform the alignment of the synchronizer assembly at top dead center or 1 cylinder compression stroke.
As previously stated, the 97 ex did have 2wd versions, and I can prove it. I'm not sure if those radiators would work either, it's just a couple I have kicking around the yard from pervious cars. Do you know how hard it is to do the fuel return line? Check also the wiring leading to the distributor and see if the wires are properly insulated away from hot exhaust which could burn the wires. Would love to share it but have not found a way to post an attachment on this forum. Ditto for the cam sensor. Here is my current effort to describe the electrical connections at the large, square 42 pin connector from the engine wiring harness to the rest of the vehicle, known as Connector 115.