Bill- no need to go through all the trouble you are describing. I only get power to the fuel pump while cranking. It was square, made by Bosch. I recall back in 89 when I last add a 280z I had the same problem should have know better. The stepping resistors are located under the driver side inspection cover next to and behind the clutch master cylinder. Fuse box is on drivers side fender well. Or you can go to the autoparts store and buy a noid light.
No cracks in end rubber indicates that this hose was virtually new with very little in service tine before being removed from wrecked car. Also double check timing order. If anyone knows how that would be greatly apprieciated. Looking back at this 3+ year old post while searching for something else, I saw this statement I made back then. Do not get any voltage to the fuel injector plugs. I do have a question for everyone.
Please contact us first for details before purchasing this unit online. I drained again and refilled with 93 octane and it fired right up. The sytem actually needs 25 - 30 psi at the rail. How do you clutch bleed? Therefore the car dies after a few secs. Fuel pressure did seem kind of weak, ill have to get a gauge and check and see what it is actually running. The fuel injectors do not receive positive voltage to fire so you won't get anything by checking them for voltage.
I have since learned, about three years ago, that I was wrong! Attempt to investigate the repair issue on your own. On the fuel pump thing, remember the fuel pump only gets juice in the key switch start position. It reads about 38psi if i leave the pump running without cranking the engine. Brand new battery plugs, wires. I need a new strainer though, does anyone know where i can get one?? I get no power to my fuel pump and no fuel through my injectors. After brining mine to a so called auto electrician, and stripping all of the light connections and checking fuses, connections etc it was determined that dash lights and tail lights were not working as there was break in the wiring somewhere. Also, from the sounds of the first cylinder firing then no more, maybe coil is going.
Originally i found out the fuel pump was running, so after i could not find any relays, i just bypassed it to a switched 12v source to see if i could get it to run. Is the fuel pump connected properly? I checked my local parts store they did not have any. If both your cars are 78s and both manual trannies, you should be fine. I dont think all the injectors are getting the same amount of fuel, im going to pull the rail tonight and put air through it. It turns over but nothing happens or it coughs and sputters but won't start or it starts but won't stay running? Even after i swapped the reley box, the fuel pump still will not work, im going to pull the fuel lines tonight and blow them out, and probably pull the fuel rail again, and blow it out. I've found plenty of other relays on other parts websites, and a local auto store, but not part number 25230-89958 ignition relay. Because Autobest manufactures and assembles everything they sell, they have complete control over quality and consistency in products.
I guess it could be that the fuel pump relay is bad because I took it off a junk yard Z but that was the last one in town and I don't have enough money to spend 100 dollars on a brand new part if I don't know that its the problem. I guess it could be that the fuel pump relay is bad because I took it off a junk yard Z but that was the last one in town and I don't have enough money to spend 100 dollars on a brand new part if I don't know that its the problem. Treat those asking for help with respect, and answer without bias toward them, their situation, or their knowledge or lack thereof about the repair issues. So could bad fuel be my culprit? Im kind of lost now, dont know where to start or what. There were two relays mounted on the bracket, the one closest to the engine was the fuel pump relay.
Who was the publisher of your manual again? Hello all, Can I wire the fuel pump on my 76 280z through a seperate switch from the battery to the pump for test purposes to get the engine running? Manufacturing Process Autobest is a vertically aligned company which means that all manufacturing aspects of the factory come under the same stringent requirements; from obtaining raw materials to final testing. I haven't gone under the car to see if I'm getting power to the pump but the pump is less than a year old and it had good connection before parked and would start right up. It is located in the thermostat housing and they are only fifteen bucks at any auto parts place. I tried to use a switched 12volt source the battery, and I keep running rich. Here is a link to an AutoZone site with wiring diagrams for all years The first thing you want to check is the connectors.
Most repairs have already been covered multiple times somewhere in great depth that will satisfy your needs. I have no Idea whats wrong with it if it isn't this relay. Part Mfr, Part number, physical description. I am going for the new ignition switch. Kind of surprising considering how long some Japanese brands stuck with carburetion. The fuel pump runs when cranking.
Does the car try to start at all? I cannot find these in my car. I just found out that there is a accessory relay some where on the car that in its info says it controls the fuel pump. There are only so many, disconnect each one, spray some contact cleaner in each one. The car turns over fine, really well, but the engine never actually starts. The connectors are the real weak link. Pulled the plug to the ecm and there isnt even a fuel pump realy pin in it.