Red + is positive and goes to the + Terminal on the battery. The lights will limit the short-circuit current to 1 to 10 amps, so you 'll never blow the meter out. If you can't find it, call Ford and they will give you the code for free. I've come to the conclusion that I will simply have to hack off the terminal still on the battery and replace both. I can recharge it with with an external charger and it works fine, for a few weeks. These steps apply equally if you intend to remove your old battery for recharging and then replacing it into the vehicle. So I don't think something is just sticking on and killing it.
If you put the meter on the 10 or 20 amp scale, it won't show 50 milliamps, you have to dial down, down, down, past 1 amp, down to the 100 mA scale, and then it will show in units of milliamps. It is loose enough for me to spin, so I know it's not a tightening issue. System had old code that went active, dealer had to call Ford for instructions, reflashed. . Not a lot of magic involved-- about at the David Blaine level of trickery.
Not sure what to think at this point maybe I should ask for my money back or another car? Wash off with clean water, then paint any exposed metal parts of the battery clamps with acid resistant paint. Installed newer more powerful battery. There is a campaign on this, and it involved adding a new ground. Wear protective eye wear and clothing when working with the battery and remove metal objects such as rings ,watch bands, bracelets etc. After shutting off and powering back on vehicle the problem again corrected for less than a mile.
New module ordered and installed. If you know your Year Make Model, put it in the selector so that we can guide you to a product that fits your vehicle. Several hundred amps will either blow the fuse inside the meter, the fuse in the car fuse box, or melt the test leads, or blow out the meter. She said that she tried to remove the cd disc but it would not eject. The car has fewer than 48,000 miles on it. Apply thin coating of vaseline to assembled battery terminals to resist future corrosion. All were replaced by Ford under the warranty.
If in doubt refer to your vehicles handbook. Would it slowly drain like I'm thinking? It could freeze and burst. I'm not a big car guy, by any means, but doesn't everything pull from the alternator once the car is started? Ford needs to review the battery manufacturer they are using in there new cars. Had it towed to the dealership and they said the battery cables and 20 feet of cable wire were completely corroded and would have to be replaced. Now replace the protector cover if fitted to your vehicle over the positive cable end and you are done. Found to be a loose wire connector. Black - is negative and goes to the - Terminal on the battery.
Dealer replaced the entire fluid reservoir and pump assembly. The technicians replaced the battery. The vehicle was not repaired. Be careful when handling car batteries - they are heavy - always keep them reasonably level when handling them to prevent any acid spillage occurring. The failure mileage was 37,000.
You like really loud music so you have an add-on amp or subwoofer. Screamed bloody murder at dealer and Ford, who covered 60%. It is constantly loosing hands free devices and not recognizing any voice commands. Look down the front edge of the battery. I have paid over hundreds of dollars for all these repairs, which occurred right after my warranty was up. Five weeks later it failed to start again. Ice build-up was the cause 51613 km Battery was run down.
Repair seemed too costly at this time. Rough the posts, smear some battery grease on each post install washers, then battery posts themselves. In addition to labelling like on the battery below these signs will also be indented into the plastic on the top of the battery beside the battery posts. Make sure you have turned off all electrical functions on the car and remove the key from the ignition. I found there was a technical notice and gave dealer number. Make sure you are wearing the safety gloves and goggles during this procedure.
In 2009, the driver side door handle broke from the inside of the door panel, the air blower began spontaneously coming on by itself when the air or the heat is not on,I replaced a battery and the car began to hesitate when accelerating. Hey, take a few extra dollars, the price of batteries has shot up quite a bit! I would not normally complain about a battery but this is my second Ford to have the same issue. Disconnect the cable from the negative - terminal first. The positive came off just fine. This ensures no accidental contact with metal parts of the car when moving the battery. Dealer ordered a new blower motor, and replaced the noisy blower motor a week later when the part came in. Use thw terminal washers, usually green and red in color, red for the positive post and so on.
It gets cold here, -20 to -30 isn't that uncommon a few times a week, with -5 to -10 average, and I've heard that cold is murder on the battery. Removing the negative terminal first helps to avoid any short circuit occurring during the procedure. It was not under warranty. Actually, a much better and boom-proof way is to keep two light bulbs handy. The failure could have potentially led to a fire.