I'd just spring for a lifetime alignment if you plan on keeping the car for a while mine has 276k miles on it and is still kicking. With a Haynes manual, you can do-it-yourself. Thanks a lot for your input. This is a pain on the 94, but easier on later models. I think thepassenger side uses bolts to hold it in the tranny.
What is the tool they mention in the manual? Remove the cotter pin and retainer before loosening the cent … er nut. Don't come in and be grumpy. This topic has been covered ad nauseum. Take the splash guard off via 2 bolts and 2 rivits. Okay, I'm reinstalling the right axle shaft. Torquing the axle nut is necessary. Disconnect the caliper from the rotor and hang it, along with the brake line, from the coil springs by using a wire coat hanger.
Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. Use a socket wrench to disconnect the power steering knuckle from the strut. Take off the nut in the center of wheel. I'm just passing on the same treatment that I received when I asked redundant questions when I was a newb. Those three bolts are not in very tight so make sure not to over-tighten when you put it back together.
Maybe it would have been all easier with a nice set of pry bars and an air hammer but I was under there for a good hour or two getting the thing to move. Remove the two bolts holding the steering nuckle to the strut. Maybe it's because I had it on jacks on both sides and the oil went somewhere else. Wedge a pry bar between two wheel studs, with one end of the pry bar resting on the ground. We put some anti-seize lubricant on the portion where it meets up to its housing. I also, purchased a Cabin air filter and Eibach alignment kit!! The whole unit should now be free from the car.
Then you want to torque all six of these bolts to 120 foot-pounds. If you have limited tools, it would be better you didn't tackle this project. A puller or other method is used to remove it and install it. I am having the same problem that you describe in that after everything else was done, I can not remove the joint from the car. The ring just seems suspended.
The rotor … is also very easy to replace. A new nut should come with the new axle. So, yeah, couldn't get that one out. The bottom should come out fairly easy, but the top will give you trouble. That's it, the axle's out. It was getting the axle in there that was the problem. I checked how well the seal fit on the axle before putting them on the car and it fit very nicely.
The distributor cap is tightened down by three small bolts. I am new here and was hoping to get some advice. You may want to search the internet to find a better way to do this. I'm doing a passenger side cv axle replacement and ran into some problems. The spot where I thought the inner shaft ended actually bolts onto a ring, and there's still a lot of shaft left to go into the tranny.
You'll probably need an antenna adapter as well. I am glad that I did. If so, you need new joint. If it is worn, you will need a new one. Sure would be hard to get any kind of socket or wrench on them.
If you have the right tools, maybe an hours worth of work. So, actually easy job but I made it take a whole day. Whether you use rtv or this gasket, the secret is to spend some extra time and clean both the engine surface and the oil pan. Take the cotter pin out of the axle nut then loosen the nut while the car is on the ground. Rememember to mark your plug wires as you unhook them from the cap. But, since this was my first axle replacement, it took the whole day two half days and I got really really dirty with all the grease. How do I get it out from the transaxle? Needed socket on other side.
Can I do either axle or boot change with the car raised on ramp? They do not undertake replacing only the boots. Oh and I just did a write-up on fuel economy, but I'll start another one to make you happy. Wagiii, Thanks for the post. Start off by removing the wheel. It really isn't that hard to do. If you do decide to do an oil flush, first drain your engine of all it's oil, but leave the old oil filter in place. You may need to use a pry bar to prevent the rotor from rotating while turning the hub nut.