We later learned that the problem was the torque converter failing to lock up, which it normally would do when the speed reaches some specific speed and not under acceleration. It runs smooth when idling and at speed, there are no strange noises like clicking coming from the engine, and it starts up quickly in both warm and cold weather. Unplug all the fuel injector connectors and replace spark plugs with new and then crank over, pull spark plugs and see if any are wet are wet with fuel. One drive belt is for the alternator. I can give you a list pluged ac system, not enough air flow over condenser, bad valves in compressor and loose belt. This may give you a point to work from. Dealer has put vehicle up to computer, but could not detect cause.
Try doing a full rutine matinence. To isolate any pulley issues, you could remove the belt and freely hand spin your idler and belt tensioner pullies to check for any excessive resistance or any 'play'. So I replaced the heads, put the timing belt on, and set the timing. What was finally found after more than a year of driving us crazy, was that the coolant temperature sensor which I believe is located at or very near the thermostat, at the thermostat housing was faulty. The computer is set up to not allow the torque converter to lock up until a certain running temperature is attained. This problem occurs most frequently though not always on cooler days. You must use new spark plugs.
May 28, 2009 If you now have a check engine light on stop at your local auto zone for a free diagnostics check. The test light should illuminate one side of the connector only. I have had the same exact problem with my Jeep. Push the transmission into the engine using the guide pins to line up. You have to narrow down the possible problems and work thru the steps.
The car is an automatic with front wheel drive only. Same failure, same valves, 162,000 miles. I checked the timing like three tiimes, and the firing order is correct for that car 1-3-4-2. Please also elaborate more on timing issue, or exhaust being clogged, etc. Inspect the plug wire and replace if needed and change the plugs. All I hear is that these cars very rarely have transmission problems.
Was told to check exhaust problem. If you still have the noise it could be that the compressor clutch is having an issue, at that point you might consider taking the front ot the clutch off to inspect it for overheating, if you find any replace the clutch and stator and recheck for the symptom. At least with the code reader you will know where to start looking. Cosnumer must pull over and restart vehicle. This test will tell you if the computer system has operating voltage and injector trigger signal.
Good luck Please or to join the conversation. Turned out to be burnt exhaust valves. They can give you the specific code and a easy explination of what is causing your problem Sounds like you might have bad spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, mabye even a fuel issue. A Honda scan tool would provide a digital display of the coolant temp sensor output, accurate to one degree I expect. This is an intermittent issue and the tranny shop does not know what the problem is. I replaced the pulley, problem gone.
It was only a issue during cold weather. The warm start problem is the only evident problem with the car. Disconnected the exhaust and noticed engine backfiring, and fire coming out of the exhaust manifold. If you still have the noise it could be that the compressor clutch is having an issue, at that point you might consider taking the front ot the clutch off to inspect it for overheating, if you find any replace the clutch and stator and recheck for the symptom. If fuel is present, the injector is bad.
One of the fuel injectors could be off, but there is no way telling that, until I open each of them and check the resistance. The metal used to manufacture the head is apparently too soft of a compound to withstand the engine temperatures. Measure the distance on each side of the torque converter to the transmission to make sure it is lined up properly. These belt tensions are adjusted manually A loose belt in either one of these could provide some slippage, especially as the overall load on the drive belt system increases. If it only happens when cold, it may not be your transmission. There is also a rubber valve or screen at the bottom of the distributor that get's dirty and the inside of the distributor collects with condesation and corrode the rotor and caps too.
Test fuel injector pulse and supply voltage output test is used for most cars. Plug the sensors in one at a time until the injector pulse fails then replace that sensor and reassemble. The problem was eventually diagnosed properly and repaired through a Honda dealer, with the assistance of the Honda Tech Center in California. Also advanced timing as necessary and then recently checked fuel pressure with in specs. Dealership replaced rotor, cap, wires, plugs etc. Please or to join the conversation. Therefore, consumer was driving an unsafe vehicle.
Please or to join the conversation. Fuel smelled so rich, shooting too much fuel. When a system trouble code scan is performed it does not always catch a crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor failure. Dreamer2355 makes some excellent suggestions above. If not then replace the cap and rotor and clean out the distributor if needed. The car has about 105K miles, and has been very well cared for and is in overall excellent condition.