Ok, that's crazy cause I was in that exact same location when looking for it. The problem is more likely to be in the circuit, between one of the sensors and the computer power or ground , a short. Instead of unplugging, test the sensor using a digital multimeter and follow the steps in the post. You may be a specialist that intends to seek references or solve existing troubles. I need to go back and look for this thing, i have to be at work in 3hrs and i have not solved my starting issue at all check my other post for those details.
For example, t … he manual calls for the timimg belt to be replaced at 120,000 miles if memory serves so you may as well tackle that also. Recent new plugs, wires, and coils. Xterra Haynes manuals are few and far between. We were told that the knock sensor wasnt that big a deal that the truck would still be ok if that was not changed. Get rid of all carbon deposits. I just removed mine from the bottom while lying on my back in the driveway. That plate might be a major issue since it has to be there, but I'll do my best.
You can get a screwdriver and tap on the block and look for changes in the voltage to verify that the knock sensor is working properly. I don't blame you for wanting to take the easy route. I have a problem with a opel Vectra 2. It seems unlikely that both replacement sensors are faulty. The knock sensor doesn't pull in a strong input like it does when it's attached to the engine block. A lot of time on your part! Then plug the connector back in so that the two strands stick out through the connector's housing.
Even disconnected the battery to reset everything. It may take some time of driving miles before it relearns the best engine operating conditions for your vehicle. Before all of this there was a few times that I had to get a jump randomly. If there's a sensor for it, try to troubleshoot the sensor. You will see 2 parts that look almost identical.
There are some things you might want to check: - When was the last time you replaced the air filter; is it clogging? If you removed the spacer or fell before installation, the sensor may have the sensing surfaced burned. April 2018 hear vibrating noice, car looses power and knocking noise. You may need a compression test and leak down test to diagnose the problem. In fact, in many cases I find the sensor broken or cracked. These are brand new, direct replacement for your factory pieces.
See what they say, if any. Starter system components like bad wires, dirty battery cables or a weak battery can interfere with the signal — power is not as it should be. After this the car will run smootly again. It's not an easy, logical design, so you might want to take care of some things while you're in deep. This is on a Nissan X trial by the way which has been until now a fabulous trouble free car. Still, it's a good idea to pull the sensor and check for shavings or other contamination that might be interrupting sensor operation.
But let's discuss first what the sensor does. For example, you may have a weakened or overstretched timing belt or timing belt tensioner. A critical component in today's computer centric engines, Hitachi's Crankshaft Position Sensors provide accurate and rapid detection of the crankshaft's position in its rotation. Besides that, the knock sensor is really an important sensor for getting the maximum power and fuel economy out of your engine. The black and white drawing pic I got from google does not help at all, I can't tell which sides of the transmission its on or anything, it's not easy to see either. When engine is cold, I can start, rough idle, and put in gear and it will move.
With the ignition, but not started I get no voltage to any wires. If you can't find anything wrong with the sensor or its circuit, it's possible you may have an intermittent failure or a failure in a related component. In order to get to it to replace it you have to take the manifold off. You can see the sensor sticking out ot the pipe. It'll give you an idea of the nature of the tests too. If you use this last method, use electrical tape to cover the pin holes on the wires' insulation after you're done with your tests to prevent corrosion from creeping into the wires.
Unplug the connector and check for rust or contamination, like oil, that is interfering with good electrical contact. When you do this, you cut the original harness and splice in a replacement pigtail that attaches to the new location. I know that there are two sensors total I have found one but not the other. Have you checked for an oil leak? Depending on the specific model of your car, your engine may have one or more cam sensors. Also, test the air temperature and cooling sensors.
I will try what you have advised above. But we are still having the same problem as before when the engine gets hot it wants to cuts out. And maybe this is the right thing for your situation. In this article will explain why it's worth your time to address the problem. What can cause three sensors to fail in 8 months? You will need a special slotted socket which you can buy at most auto parts stores.